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Colombia, South America - Caribbean coast - February 2020

3/2/2020

 
In February, 2020 I travelled Vancouver-Toronto-Cartagena and explored the Caribbean coast for 3 weeks, using local transport and staying at airbnbs owned by locals. I was immersed in the culture and language and sent 4 "missives" back to family and friends. Read on if it interests you! - Alison

Missive #1 - Cartagena, Colombia

February 6, 2020
​Hola a todos!

I arrived in Cartagena, Colombia after a 2-leg trip from Vancouver to Toronto to Cartagena. Only 12 hrs but tiring in the ever-reducing space of Economy class. I was glad to be on my feet even just to join the long snake of travellers waiting to clear Customs. Sara, my  Airbnb hostess was patiently waiting for me holding up a paper with my name. We walked together to her "edificio entre palmas" (building between palm trees), just blocks away from a major international airport. I have her bedroom which is sparse, clean and comfortable with a pedestal fan operating all night to alleviate the 24-hr heat (>30).
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Cartagena - Guillotine in Museum of the Inquisition
The walled city was built 400 years ago by the Spanish against attacks from the English and pirates. Original buildings remain, including the museum of the Inquisition dating from the 1700s. I spent a couple of hours exploring the exhibits, also enjoying the AC and access to bathrooms! Then the cruise ship arrived and 2000 Germans delivered, prey to swarms of street vendors, taxi drivers and tour guides. I sought shade & ended up in conversation with an underemployed locals also seeking relief from the sun. I gave 10,000 Colombian pesos (about CAD$4.50) to a young woman with 2 small children, an economic refugee from Venezuela. I spoke to a Colombian about her later and he said she would be picked up by police if discovered.
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Typical "comida del dia" (meal of the day) in Colombia: stewed chicken, rice, beans, plantain and soup with juice made of tamarind ("tomate del arbol)
Sara works for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and rises early to take a "colectivo" (shared taxi) into the Centre. She shares a small 3-bdr apt with her youngest daughter Natalia, just finishing high school and her mother, also Sara, and about my age.

Yesterday I caught a colectivo to the old walled city of Cartagena, a big tourist attraction and local source of pride. Transport is a confusing melange of taxis, buses, scooters and pedicabs. Each has it's own transaction vocabulary and pickups and prices are organised in local fashion, not evident to a visitor. It would be difficult to cope solo without spanish.
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View of roofs from my window
As in all of Latin America there is significant poverty and the average Colombian earns USD$100 - 300 per month. However beggars are few, most of them elderly or handicapped. Many survive as vendors and ply the streets continuously for a few pesos. In contrast, the beachfront is lined with luxury hotel and condo towers with more in construction. Pace of life is slow, people are ready to chat, and I've been treated honestly and fairly.

Today I take the bus to Baranquilla, about 120 km NE of Cartagena. I have arranged airbnb accommodation for the next 4 nights and then will work it out as I go. I may escape this heat and head into the hills after Santa Marta.


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Looking back: travel across Canada with harp

11/10/2017

 
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Tuning up the Dusty Strings Ravenna 26 harp on the "Canadien" Via Rail train across Canada. It was a challenge accommodating my playing to the lateral sway of the train!

Listen to the harp on the train and see the Prairies flowing by on this YouTube video

Next year Labrador and northern Quebec!

Newfoundland Chronicles

10/8/2017

 

Montréal in 3 days

9/15/2017

 
Spent 3 days in Montreal, walking, hiring bixi bikes, eating at cafes and generally gawking.
Next stop Truro, Nova Scotia and then Newfoundland. Much curiosity about the harp from train passengers.

Sept 2017 - travels to Newfoundland

9/9/2017

 
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Left Vancouver on ViaRail travelling the "Canadian" as part of the "Artist on Board" program where I get my meals and travel in exchange for playing 3 x 3/4 hr sets in the skyline cars plus a couple of short performances in Vancouver and Jasper stations.

I've finished the first leg of my journey, having arrived 4 days later in Toronto, and only 9 hours behind schedule! Tomorrow I continue my travels to Montreal and after a few days exploring the city get aboard the "Ocean" ViaRail train to Truro Nova Scotia. From there to Sydney and then on the overnight ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland.
More to come when wifi permits (none on the trains).

Vancouver Central ViaRail Station

Last days in Nova Scotia

9/28/2016

 
Writing this from New Glasgow, located on the Northumberland shore of Nova Scotia, near the ferry that runs from Pictou to Prince Edward Island. It's also a couple of hours' drive from Cape Breton which I haven't visited on (this) trip. I've been staying the last few days with a friend in Thorburn, making day trips to Pictou, Antigonish, and joining a music session at a local pub "The Dock".
Thorburn is like many Nova Scotian villages; a scattering of old houses, a handful of tall, white churches (many for sale) and many graveyards, one for each sect. Cape cod style houses built late early 1900's wooden with tall, steep roofs, straight and simple. Reminiscent of a child's drawing of a house complete with laden apple trees out front. My apple-leather-making food dryer would be smokin' here..
Since the last blog I've driven the western and north western shores skirting New Brunswick, always seeking the back-roads which are asphalted but mysteriously sign-posted. I've met lots of locals asking for directions and even they don't know.
Fly back from Halifax to Nanaimo tomorrow, with one stop in Calgary. The weather has cooled and my suitcase is empty of clothes as I'm wearing them all - toodle-oo - Alison

From the South Shore of Nova Scotia across to Acadia

9/23/2016

 
Left Halifax in my rented Kia "Rio", first delivering the Ravenna  26 harp to a local teacher then heading SW to the "Kiwi Kip Kaboodle" hostel. Visited World Heritage town, Lunenburg, crossed LeHave Inlet on a cable ferry, overnighted in both Port Mouton and Caledonia and crossed over to the Acadian side, sneaking through before the Queens County Fair parade blocked highway #8 for most of a Tuesday afternoon.
Very easy to get lost on Nova Scotian roads as signs are made for locals, and there's various generations of backroads, minor and major highways that intersect, converge and then head off in new directions. Because of the diagonal orientation of the province directional indicators for roads are quite confusing - eg. today I travelled the #2 north, heading west most of the time.
Few tourists with minor roads clear of traffic. Flattish terrain with scrubby trees and all these amazing tidal rivers on the Bay of Fundy side (Acadia and Annapolis valley). Drove from Digby to Parrsboro today in steady rain. Sun promised for tomorrow - Alison

Harping from Toronto to Halifax

9/18/2016

 
I arrived in Halifax Sept 15 and was fortunate to be picked up at the train station by my friend Carolyn. Halifax isn't that big a city, but always big to a newcomer.
I've walked the waterfront (a few times), taken the ferry to Dartmouth, visited the excellent Immigration museum and spent hours working out my accommodation and travel for the next 2 weeks in Nova Scotia.
Will be staying at hostels around the province, perhaps visiting almost every one of the 8 or 10 listed as I have 11 days to tour before departure on Sept 29. Decided for car rental and hopefully have arranged sale in Halifax of the Ravenna 26 harp I used playing across Canada. It will make my flight back easier. Will be seeking out walking trails, history and local phenomena and hope to visit at least 1 harpmaker and a few harpists - Alison

Vancouver to Toronto notes

9/13/2016

 
Left Vancouver on Friday at 8 pm, Sept 9th aboard the Via Rail train "Canadian Two". Had a contract to play the harp 3x/day and at 2 station stops (Vancouver & Jasper) in exchange for my travel and meals. The route took me through Jasper, Edmonton, Saskatoon, Winnipeg and all spots in between to Toronto. Arrived in Toronto Sept 13, overnighted with friends then caught the commuter train to Montreal and from there boarded the "Ocean" train to Halifax, arriving there Sept 15. All the way I enjoyed a private room and 5* meals (a little chubbier now). I've put up a slide show of photos and will send again from Halifax. - Alison

September Harping by Train

8/29/2016

 
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This harp and I  (without the cute "critters" made by Leah F) will soon be travelling in the train together across Canada.
I will blog my adventures (train wifi permitting) from Vancouver through to Halifax, from departure on Sept 9th to arrival in Nova Scotia' s capital on Sept 15.
I'm contracted to provide 3 x 3/4 hr performances per day in 3 locations on the train, plus a station performance before leaving Vancouver and before re-boarding in Jasper. It's all part of the "Artists on Board" program with Via Rail. No pay cheque but free passage & accommodation and (I hear) excellent meals.
A marvellous way to explore that "other"  coast of Canada.

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Alison Vardy
alison@westcoastharps.com

phone: 250.722.2912 
West Coast Harps 
2235 Hummingbird Drive
Nanaimo  BC  V9X 1G6
CANADA